Half Moon Bay
Half Moon Bay History
Beginnings
The first people on this fertile coastal terrace believed that they came from the earth. In their first 14,000 years here, they developed a way of life that was centered on caring for the land. The people now referred to collectively as Ohlone were organized into at least 50 politically autonomous tribal groups that spoke several dialects. Extended clans formed villages, each of which included societal organizations.
Working together, the organizations directed storage of surplus food, constructed buildings, planned hunting strategies, and determined when and where to relocate to follow the seasons. Houses called ruk were built of tightly thatched tule reeds woven over a frame of willow poles. Each house had an indoor and an outdoor hearth, and an underground oven for roasting bulbs, shellfish, and meats.
The Ohlone hunted small land animals and communally hunted large animals like elk and deer. They caught salmon and trout from streams, caught surf fish from the ocean, and gathered shellfish such as mussels and clams. Women were adept at deep dives for abalone—the meat was eaten; the shells were used as utensils or decorations and were an important trade item. The Ohlone traded with tribes all over California and as far east as Colorado, trading abalone shells, olivella shells, and other local items for things not available here, such as obsidian for arrow- and spearheads.
Their diet was primarily plant-based and included grass and plant seeds, berries, mushrooms, shoots, bulbs, seaweed, fresh greens, and acorn meal. Seed-producing grasslands were once a dominant feature of the coastal terrace and the Ohlone milled flour from the seeds of plants like clarkia and tarweed. Many plants used medicinally by the Ohlone are used in today’s medications. For example, the bark of the willow contains salicylic acid and is chewed or used as a tea to relieve minor pain; salicylic acid is the main ingredient in aspirin. Another example is coastal gumplant (grindelia), whose sticky buds were used for respiratory, skin, and digestive ailments; today it is the main ingredient in Tecnu, a skin product for relief of poison oak rash.
Native peoples throughout California managed the landscape using fire to increase seed production. After the grasslands were burned in late summer, new vegetal growth not only produced new food crops but also attracted game for hunting. When Europeans came to California, they described areas as tended gardens rich in wildflowers, edible bulbs, and carefully groomed grasslands. They didn’t come upon a wilderness—they came upon a managed landscape.
When Life Changed
The Quiroste village near Año Nuevo that is believed to be where the 1769 Portolá expedition was welcomed, and where the men were cured of scurvy. As the expedition continued to travel the Coastside they were welcomed, fed, and cared for at each village.
The Coastside’s increasing populations of Spanish colonists, Mexican rancheros, and American settlers changed the Ohlone way of life forever. Foreign cattle, horses, and sheep grazed on the native plants, drastically reducing the native people’s food supply. Foreign plants such as wild oats, mustard, radish, and bur clover were introduced, further degrading the food supply and increasing the Ohlone’s dependence on the foreigners for sustenance. In 1850, California statehood followed the Gold Rush and led to institutional racism and servitude. Many Ohlone survived by blending into Latino communities, having been given Spanish names and culture; some small bands escaped to live, hidden, in the forests.
Today the Amah Mutsun are collaborating in Quiroste Valley with archaeologists from California State Parks and the University of California to research and re-introduce the traditional resource and environmental management that was practiced before the arrival of Europeans. The small valley was a seasonal home of the Quiroste and their predecessors for millennia. Descendants of the first people still live on the Coastside and continue to identify themselves as the Ohlone people.
Mexico Holds “Alta California” 1821 – 1848
The Spanish colony of Mexico won its independence from Spain after a revolt in 1821. Alta California, as we were called, was ruled by Mexico for only a few decades. The missions were decommissioned during this time, and land was dispersed. In 1839 Tiburcio Vasquez, the majordomo of the Presidio in San Francisco, was granted 4,436 acres called Rancho Corral de Tierra, stretching from the southern part of El Granada to Pilarcitos Creek. To the south, Candelario Miramontes was granted Rancho Miramontes in 1841. Prior to this, our coastal area had been used mainly for the grazing of livestock from Mission Dolores. In the 1840s the town of San Benito – later called Spanish Town – began to develop and thrive.
During this time sea commerce became increasingly important, as more ships from countries such as Britain, which was interested in California, sailed into San Francisco Bay. Ships would also stop offshore in Half Moon Bay to inspect goods such as hides, as rowboats with merchandise could be sent out to the ships. A lively fishing community also began to exist.
The Gold Rush and Growth of California 1848 – 1900
The Bear Flag Revolt in Sonoma in 1846 highlighted the escalating tension between Mexico and the growing influx of American settlers. The Treaty of Guadalupe Hildago, a result of this conflict, ceded Alta California to the United States. Unbeknownst to the signers, gold had been discovered at Sutter’s Mill a few weeks before, on January 24, 1848. California was forever changed, as millions of people poured into the state – and into our coastal area - from all over the world. The original Mexican land grants were broken into smaller parcels of land in the 1850s and 1860s, and many farms and dairies were established by the new American arrivals.
Settlers to the coast began producing crops such as potatoes, hay, and oats, which found a ready market in the growing town of San Francisco. In 1868 Josiah Ames built a pier and warehouse near the Arroyo de en Medio so that steam-powered ships could stop, load our goods, and transport them north to San Francisco.
Robert Knapp, a farmer, blacksmith, newspaper publisher, and politician was the most visible inventor, most notably of the side hill plow. Knapp watched farmers struggling to plow their land on the coastal hills using Kilgore plows which were heavy, clumsy, and difficult to reverse the blade after each row was plowed. In 1873 Knapp made his own plow, which was so successful it had three patents on it by 1875. It was lighter, sturdier, and far easier to reverse the blade after each row without having to let go of the plow. The plow won 14 awards at state and county fairs, and another award at the New Orleans World’s Exposition. The San Mateo Gazette visited Knapp’s Half Moon Bay firm in 1878, noting that along with the innovative plow, Knapp had invented a “drop hammer” machine for cutting and grinding steel to speed up manufacturing, as demand for the plows was substantial. He also creatively used a horse-driven treadmill as a power source at his garage.
Other lesser-known innovators made contributions as well. The boom in artichoke farming was the mother of necessity for another Coastside inventor, Ralph Woodman from Pescadero. Artichokes were introduced to the United States in 1806, but the first commercial planting in California is said to have taken place in El Granada by Dante Dianda in the 1860s. The first coastal artichokes were sent to the East Coast as early as 1904, to be sold to Italian populations. Big artichokes that sold for a nickel in San Francisco often brought as much as a dollar in Italian neighborhoods in Eastern cities. Woodman found that existing graders didn’t work well for artichokes, so he invented and patented an artichoke grader in 1924 that was specially adapted for grading artichokes with their long stems.
ldo Giusti, whose family is still farming on the coast. faced a labor shortage in the 1960s that made it difficult to harvest his Brussels sprout crops. He patented his idea for a mechanical harvesting machine in 1969 as “An apparatus for stripping Brussels sprouts and being provided with a cutter having a guide surface disposed to have the main stalk of an unimpaled Brussels sprout plant advanced there along, the cutter having an edge disposed to strip sprouts from the plant, and this cutter being connected to a rapid- speed vibrator that is continuously reciprocated back and forth in short strokes.”
Giusti’s creativity went far beyond farming implements as in the early 1970s Mr. Giusti, an avid golfer, filed patent for a “Golf-Practicing Apparatus.” Players used a “self-adhering golf ball” that could “be propelled from a tee on a matt” to a panel, to which the ball stuck, and the panel was marked to show the elevation and distance of a drive.
A big challenge facing Coastside farmers was that of getting produce and goods to their markets and customers, as roads at the time were poor to non-existent and the rocky, bluff-lined coast was not conducive to anchoring and loading of ships. Alexander Gordon’s 100-foot high chute near Tunitas Creek was built on top of rocks and reached from the top of the bluffs to the open sea. Gordon had the chute built to solve his own problems in getting produce from his farm to market but also hoped to generate income from other farmers. The structure was beset with problems from its inception. The bluff was high and windy, and more than one person was killed in accidents. Ten-to-twenty-foot waves broke over the base of the chute, and ships’ captains had to brave ocean swells to anchor on the reef—many would not. Worse, the steep 45% angle slide to ships created friction that reportedly sometimes ignited sacks of produce, which arrived in flames or burst on impact at the bottom of the chute. Gordon’s Chute had some successes, most notably during a grain boom in the 1870s, but ultimately the enterprise went bankrupt. It was destroyed on November 17, 1885 during a Southeast gale.
The Ocean Shore Railroad Years 1908 – 1922
Construction on the railroad from San Francisco began in 1905, but the great earthquake of 1906 sent equipment working on Devil’s Slide tumbling into the sea. Finally reaching Half Moon Bay in 1908, it brought trainloads of day trippers and prospective land buyers to the coast. The Ocean Shore company bought up lots in El Granada, planted trees and put in curbs that can still be found today.
Prohibition 1920 – 1933
Eyewitness accounts indicate boats landed on Half Moon Bay beaches carrying illegal alcohol from Canada. Several citizens also ran stills. The Bath House in Granada was originally located at the modern site of Surfer’s Beach. Built by the railroad, it was a location that rumrunners used for illegal alcohol. Its location has now eroded into the ocean.
The Great Depression 1929 - 1941
When the stock market crashed in 1929, the country, and the world, was plunged into an economic Depression. Residents of our coast would have been luckier than many; this was an agricultural area, growing (as it still does) artichokes, Brussels sprouts, hay, and oats. There was cattle, a dairy and a fishing community.
World War II 1941 – 1945
World War II brought an influx of military personnel to the community. There was a fear along the west coast that Japanese bombers could attack. Ship building started in full force in San Francisco, and the military occupied certain local sites, such as the building that is now Cameron’s Pub, and Point Montara. In 1943 the Palace Miramar Hotel was commandeered as Camp Miramar and a pre-fab military city was erected around it. Citizens of Italian, Japanese or German heritage were unable to venture west of Main Street. The June 1943 edition of the Station List of the Army of the United States stated that a single rifle company, Company G of the 125th Infantry Regiment, was present at Camp Miramar. By January of 1944 the site was deemed unnecessary and vacated.
Returning from war, soldiers started families, bought homes, and spent weekends on Half Moon Bay beaches to relax. The town got back to normal life and the new Highway 1 construction opened up the ability to drive and buy goods from San Francisco and the Peninsula.
Becoming a City
Half Moon Bay was incorporated in 1959 which gave the city more autonomy and provided it with its own government, police, fire, and other services. The incorporation also enabled the city to draw upon additional state and federal funds for public works projects, such as roads and public facilities. The incorporation allowed it to become more organized and self-sustaining, and it paved the way for increased development and commercial activity, which has contributed to the growth of the local economy over time.
The incorporation also allowed the city to control its own zoning regulations, which has been instrumental in preserving the area’s natural beauty. Located on the Pacific coast about 25 miles south of San Francisco, it is known for its natural wonders, including the world-famous monster waves at Mavericks. Today’s Half Moon Bay features tourism as an important part of its economy, with its picturesque coastline and numerous attractions. The city is also home to several wineries, a golf course, and a variety of shops, restaurants, and hotels. The annual Art & Pumpkin Festival is one of the area’s most popular attractions, drawing thousands of visitors every year.
From Rancho to Modern-Day Hamlet
When you stroll Half Moon Bay’s historic Main Street, you’re walking in the footsteps of a motley cast of characters, from 19th century gold seekers and Mexican soldiers to Spanish explorers and Ohlone tribes. Long before its streets hosted vibrant art and pumpkin fests, downtown Half Moon Bay was a rural ranchero community, the result of land granted by the Mexican government to Candelario Miramontes, a military officer at the Presidio of San Francisco. Miramontes dubbed his new land Rancho San Benito, but, after the Gold Rush brought hordes of fortune seekers west, newcomers began referring to the village as Spanishtown. As the burgeoning town developed the nearby crescent-shaped coastline inspired residents to redub the town Half Moon Bay in 1874.
Start at the Main Street Bridge (300 Main St.) which in its earliest form has served as the entrance to town since the days of the Miramontes ranchero. In the 1800s, Mexican settlers and American pioneers would traverse a simple wooden bridge that spanned Pilarcitos Creek. In 1900, local mover and shaker Joseph Debenedetti—a county supervisor who had a hand in numerous downtown buildings—called for the county’s first steel-reinforced bridge which still stands today, a survivor of the 1906 and 1989 earthquakes. Note that the steel used to bolster the concrete bridge was sourced from San Francisco’s discarded cable car tracks.
From the bridge, amble down Main Street to the Zaballa House (324 Main St.). Built in c. 1855, it’s the oldest home in Half Moon Bay. Estanislao Zaballa—who would become an early town planner laying out Half Moon Bay’s streets and blocks—married into the Miramontes family and built this wooden Greek Revival home which stood in stark contrast to the surrounding adobes. Today, you can sleep where Zaballa laid his head. The historic home now serves as a bed & breakfast hosting guests in its antique-filled rooms.
Half Moon Bay Feed & Fuel (331 Main Street) is a wondrous farm supply emporium founded in 1911. With everything from western saddles to fuzzy baby chicks, the shop embodies the region’s rural and agricultural legacy. Across the street, the wonderfully atmospheric San Benito House (356 Main St.) has served as a restaurant, inn, and bar for over a hundred years with wood plank floors, taxidermy-adorned walls, and vintage saloon lamps.
One of downtown’s most notable buildings is actually a replica. The original building that currently houses Cunha’s Market (448 Main St.) was lost in a 2003 fire and faithfully reconstructed including its striking copper cupola. The previous building began life as—what else—a saloon dubbed the Index Saloon because it was thought to be the one by which all others should be measured.
The Beaux-Arts beauty at 501 Main Street is City Hall, built in 1922 as the Bank of Half Moon Bay. Shortly afterward, it became the Bank of Italy, the predecessor to Bank of America founded by San Jose-born A.P. Giannini who made his fortune offering savings accounts and loans to the working class and not just the uber wealthy. Peek inside and look for the building’s original vault.
As you browse downtown’s many boutiques, take note of Old West facade at 527 Main Street, the oldest retail building in town, built in 1873 as Giuseppe Boitano’s Store.
Head east off of Main Street on Miramontes Street and you’ll arrive at a quaint American Colonial home which originally served as the first English-speaking school in Spanishtown (611 Johnston St). The school was founded by the Johnston family for their children and neighbors.
Before being rolled via logs to its current setting, the schoolhouse sat near the family’s home, now one of the most iconic buildings in town, The James Johnston House (Higgins Canyon Rd.) James Johnston, a Scottish immigrant who served in the Mexican-American War, purchased over 1,000 acres of the Miramontes Rancho in 1853, acquiring the land south of what is now Half Moon Bay. His restored New England-style white saltbox home—sloped roof with two stories in front, single story in back—stands against an idyllic backdrop of green fields and rolling hills, visible from great distances along Highway 1. The home is open to the public on the third Saturday of the month, January – September.
At the northeast corner of Johnston and Miramontes Streets sits one of Half Moon Bay’s architectural gems, the 1872 Community United Methodist Church (777 Miramontes St.). The Gothic Revival chapel is one of the oldest Protestant churches in the West and was designed by Charles Geddes, the renowned San Francisco architect who designed the iconic chapel in Yosemite. Note the names stamped into the sidewalk fronting the church. They’re the church’s early pioneer supporters whose names were incorporated into the original 1911 sidewalk.
Nearby is the two-cell 1919 Old Jail (505 Johnston St), a popular overnight accommodation for the town’s indulgent saloon patrons. Directly behind the jail is the Thomas Johnston Barn, one of the few remaining industrial buildings in town. Along with brothers James and William, Thomas Johnston attempted to bring dairy cows from their home state of Ohio to Spanishtown. The venture never really took hold, and Thomas started a freight business to serve the burgeoning agricultural and lumber trade.
At the corner of Kelly Avenue and Johnston Street, it’s hard to miss the Simmons House (751 Kelly Ave.), an ornate home built for William Adam Simmons, an early Anglo-American resident of Spanishtown who operated a dual business behind his home. As both carpenter and undertaker, he’d build the coffins and fill them too. Today, it’s one of five structures within the Half Moon Bay region listed on the National Registry of Historic Places (along with the Main Street Bridge, Community United Methodist Church, James Johnston House, and Robert Mills Dairy Barn).
Coastside History Museum
The Coastside History Museum opened in June 2023 and features new exhibits, older exhibits from the Jail museum, and additional artifacts. The museum, including the jail, is open Saturdays and Sundays. Museum exhibits and artifacts bring the San Mateo coastside’s past to life, reflecting its many cultures and depicting the times of the Indigenous Ohlone, the Spanish and Mexican eras, our agricultural heritage, the railroad, and more. The museum holds free speaker events on local history topics, provides an education program to all schools in the area, and record oral histories to preserve the stories of the coast. There is also a large variety of glass bottles from the Olhone time to the 1950’s at the Museum.
Text courtesy of:
https://www.halfmoonbayhistory.org/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Half_Moon_Bay,_California
https://www.visithalfmoonbay.org/articles/historic-main-street-self-guided-walking-tour
https://www.discoverhalfmoonbayca.com/history-of-half-moon-bay-timeline-of-half-moon-bay